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Motorcycle
Safari in Rajasthan India
Day 1
of your of trip - you will be met by our rep. at Delhi international
airport and will be transferred to hotel.
From your first glance at the
sprawling metropolis of Delhi you will immediately begin to appreciate
that India is a land of contrasts, a land of diversity and variation
unparalleled anywhere else in the world. Abject and squalid slums sit
incongruously alongside amazing modern buildings of stunning beauty, like
the lotus shaped Ba'hai temple. Five star hotels are served by
1950's-vintage taxi cabs with engines the same size as their batteries.
Ten million people somehow manage to eke out an existence in this city
whose levels of activity continue to escalate at an apparently
unsustainable pace. At times confusing, at times challenging and at all
times chaotic, Delhi is never still, never restful and never boring.
Day 2 will be used to break you in gently to the culture shock some
people experience in Delhi. We'll take a half-day guided tour of Old Delhi
including the Jama Masjid, India's largest mosque, the impressive Red Fort
and perhaps a rickshaw ride through the tiny, crowded streets of the
bazaars around Chandni Chowk. We can also do some last minute shopping and
preparations for tomorrow's departure. We will need to be up and about
early tomorrow, so a quiet night is called for. Don't try to drink all of
your duty-free whisky tonight.
Day 3 has us rising early to leave the chaos of Delhi behind before
the peak hour traffic begins in earnest. We set a leisurely pace and enjoy
the burble of the bikes as we briefly take National Highway 8 southwest
from the capital and soon enter Rajasthan. We leave the highway as early
as possible and take to the back roads, travelling only 120k for our first
day's ride to Neemrana Fort Palace. Covering some 25 acres of land and
built in 1464, it is the oldest heritage resort in all of India.
Day 4
The state emblem of Rajasthan is the
peacock and many can be spotted roaming freely in the rural areas we
traverse today on our way to the Shekhawati region, famous for its
beautiful havelis, those centuries-old mansions of wealthy merchants and
noblemen. Intricate frescoes and murals depict the history of the area.
Our stop for the night is a mediaeval castle, the Mandawa Castle Hotel,
near the regional capital of Jhunjhunu where the British based their famed
Shekhawati Brigade.
Day 5
sees us heading
directly west through arid wastelands, approaching the Great Thar Desert
which constitutes much of Rajasthan. Our destination today is Bikaner, a
town of half a million, once an important staging post on the great
caravan trading routes of the middle ages. Our accommodation here is the
impressive Gajner Palace, built on the banks of a lake. Its architecture
is a splendid example of the skill of early craftsmen.
Day 6 will take us through progressively sparser vegetation and
population, to the remote outpost of Pokaran. An obscure little spot until
very recently, Pokaran is the nearest inhabited place to the site of those
notorious nuclear tests which India flaunted at the rest of the world in
1998. The nearest we come to the site is about 65km however, so we're not
in much danger of radioactive contamination. Still, if anyone's roommate
should start glowing in the dark, our tour leader would appreciate hearing
about it.
Day 7 brings us right into the heart of the desert. As we approach
the western extremities of India near the border with Pakistan, an amazing
spectacle rises from the floor of the Great Thar Desert. This is Jaisalmer,
a stunning fortress city looking like something straight out of Arabian
Nights or Ali Baba and the Forty Thieves. With its incredible array of
bastions, battlements and ramparts, the colour of this sandstone fort at
sunset has led to Jaisalmer becoming known as the Golden City.
Day 8 is a rest
day which we will spend exploring Jaisalmer, perhaps with an afternoon
camel safari. In earlier days it truly was a golden city, a place of great
opulence on the caravan trading routes between India and central Asia. In
Jaisalmer, some of the population still live within the walls of the Old
City and fortress but in recent, more peaceful times, the buildings have
sprawled out into the desert all around. A feature of Jaisalmer is the
abundance of splendid havelis; intricate carvings and works of art are
commonplace and visitors are welcome to roam freely.
Day 9 is our longest day in terms of kilometres travelled, but the
300k to the Blue City of Jodhpur is mainly on good sealed highway without
too many traffic hassles. The Maharaja of Jodhpur gave the world those
wonderful horse-riding breeches of the same name, which he had specially
made by the court tailor after he found it quite impossible to play polo
with the British in his long, flowing regal robes.
Day 10 is spent exploring Jodhpur. Although not appearing blue from
down at ground level, the view from the huge fortress of Meherangarh Fort
over the town is a true spectacle as all the blue-washed Brahmin houses
shimmer in the sunlight. The fort was one of the film locations for the
recent Disney re-make of Rudyard Kipling's splendid The Jungle Book. We
may also visit the Umaid Bhawan Palace for lunch, a stunning Maharaja's
palace now converted into the largest ground-area 5 star hotel in India,
with the Royal Family still resident in one wing.
Day 11 and we proceed to Mt. Abu. In the very south of the state on
the border with Gujarat, this is the only 'hill station' to be found in
Rajasthan. The climate is a cool welcome relief from the plains below,
with the town spread along a hilly plateau at 1200 metres. Beautiful Nakki
Lake is the primary attraction in the town, very popular with honeymoon
couples who come here and walk around or paddle across it. The entire town
is very picturesque.
Day 12 We start with a visit to the superb Dilwara Temples, 5km out
of Mt. Abu. Dilwara is possibly the best preserved group of Jain temples
to be found in India, with intricate designs and marble carvings unmatched
anywhere else. In the afternoon we ride to Udaipur, famous for the
beautiful white Maharaja's palace in the middle of Lake Pichola.
Day 13 is a rest day. As every second local will tell you, a
segment of James Bond's Octopussy was filmed here in Udaipur. The
lake palace, like so many others, has now been converted into a luxury
hotel and we can visit for lunch or afternoon tea to have a look around.
We shall spend some time on the lake in a solar-powered tourist launch,
and the sunset over the lake with a stunning white palace provides great
photo opportunities.
Day 14 Chittorgarh, perhaps more than any other fortress, is
symbolic of the futile, idealistic chivalry which was a way of Rajput life
in the middle ages. Frequently plundered and sacked by superior invading
armies, the warriors of Chittorgarh responded by declaring jauhar, a
ritualistic, macabre suicide pact. The men would don saffron robes and
ride out of the fort to meet certain death, whilst the women and children
would throw themselves on a huge funeral pyre. Death before Dishonour was
the paramount consideration. In one single tragic case, 13,000 women and
32,000 warriors are said to have perished in this manner. Chittorgarh is
our destination for today
Day 15 We proceed to Pushkar, a peaceful and picturesque little
town for the eleven months of the year which do not have the world-famous
Pushkar Camel Fair. Thousands of camels, horses, cattle and oxen are
bought and sold with the enthusiasm and gusto that only an Indian crowd of
around 200,000 traders can muster. It's always held at the time of the
full moon in November, and is one of the most colourful and flamboyant
festivals in India.
Day 16
At other times of the
year, Pushkar is a peaceful and picturesque little town with its beautiful
lake a pilgrimage site for devout Hindus who come to bathe in its waters.
If we rise early we can catch the dawn bathing and praying rituals ('puja')
and watch the town come to life before we ride to the Rajasthan capital of
Jaipur, the Pink City. Pink is the traditional Rajput colour of
hospitality and many of the homes in the Old City are this colour. The
Hawa Mahal, Palace of the Winds, is a fine example of Rajput craftsmanship
in the centre of town. Built 200 years ago to allow the ladies of the
court to watch everyday life in the streets below without themselves being
observed by probing eyes, the palace is virtually only a facade of fine
latticed windows in pink sandstone.
Day 17 sees us arriving
at Ranthambhore National Park. This is the headquarters of India's rather
unsuccessful Project Tiger, a noble but futile effort to ensure that the
magnificent Bengal Tiger had a sanctuary in the wild where it was safe
from mankind's ruthless greed. Unfortunately the Park officials, like so
many of India's bureaucracy, were often susceptible to bribery and
corruption and 'occasionally' turned a blind eye to poaching, with the
result that tiger numbers fell to an alarming 40-ish at one stage. Things
seem to be gradually improving in this regard however, and the chances of
seeing a tiger here are now better than anywhere else on the subcontinent.
Day 18 will see us in the Park around sunrise, for an elephant-back
safari in search of the elusive tiger at his most active time of the day.
No guarantees though! Then we hit the road again and head north to another
sanctuary of a different kind; Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary. Even for non-birdlovers,
this place is quite spectacular. Some 415 bird varieties have been
identified here, migrating from as far away as Siberia in huge, apparently
unsustainable numbers. Upwards of 3000 painted storks have been counted in
one square kilometre of marshland.
Day 19 is when we leave Rajasthan behind and cross the state border
(although you won't notice it) into Uttar Pradesh. We shall visit the
incredible deserted city of Fatehpur Sikri, once the capital of the Moghul
Empire for a brief period before being completely abandoned, due to a
total lack of foresight in obtaining a reliable water source! Then we
proceed to Agra in time for a sunset visit to that most famous of all
Indian monuments, the Taj Mahal. This mausoleum is without doubt the
world's greatest symbol of love, constructed between 1631 and 1653 by
Emperor Shah Jahan as an eternal tribute to his beloved wife Mumtaz who
had died in 1629 perhaps not surprisingly, giving birth to their 15th
child in 17 years.
Day 20 and those who wish can make a second pilgrimage to the Taj
Mahal at sunrise, to see the amazing change of colour effected by
different times of the day on the brilliant white marble. We then head off
on the last leg of our Safari to cover the 200km between Agra and Delhi,
which we should do easily by around lunchtime on this recently improved
highway. We convince you to return the Enfields to their rightful owner,
farewell you this evening with an early meal in one of the popular
restaurants in central Connaught Place, then transfer you to the airport
for the midnight . It's been a lot of fun !
Day 21 Home sweet home.
Go tell all your friends.
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